As a rule, restaurant critics focus on cuisine, service, and décor, while graphics—type and image—are usually dismissed as promotion or marketing. But I’d argue that inferior graphic design speaks volumes about an overall commitment to quality. A restaurant’s logo, sign, menu, business card, matches, and even check holder—especially the check holder—should be as appetizing as everything on the table. So I am astounded that many restaurateurs aren’t as demanding about their typographic standards as they are about their napkins. Design is often such an afterthought that the receptionist does it on her PC.
Perhaps there would be more reason to stress graphic design if critics paid attention to it. But they never mention graphics and, truth be told, barely assess the architecture (even when designed by Pritzker Prize winners). And while I savor the tasty prose of gifted food writers, if I were a critic, my readers would be treated to a regular menu of cuisine and design in an attempt to right the imbalance. So I’m offering some alternative reviews based on recent experiences, just in case food editors are looking for a fresh voice.
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